Thursday, December 21, 2023

CHANNELING MARTHA STEWART

 


 

CHANNELING MARTHA STEWART

 

Cocktails… I love them! (I am a food & drink columnist, after all.)  I love cocktail parties.  Don’t get me wrong, I’m not talking cocktail parties you may have seen in classic, black&white “Thin Man” movies when martinis reigned, or those 1950’s cocktail parties featuring food fare centered around hors d’oeuvres of onion dip, pigs-in-a-blanket, deviled eggs, and numerous Kraft toppings on Ritz crackers, especially Kraft’s cheddar cheese.  Brie on sliced baguette?  What’s brie?  What’s baguette?  Can’t find those in a Piggly Wiggly or A&P back then.  Then there were the legendary party hostesses in that by-gone era such as Pearl Mesta and Elsa Maxwell who threw elegant soirees for royalty and the WASP 400 which were featured on the society pages with pictures laden with Beluga caviar on toast points. Toast points? 

The 50s transitioned into the 60s and 70s...  the culture began to change, but cocktail food fare remained stagnant, doomed to the dip dungeon.  As a Woodstock generation budding writer in NYC, I admired the wit of Nora Ephron and the writings of NY Times Vietnam war correspondent, Gloria Emerson (full disclosure, both were acquaintances of mine).  But then Martha Stewart raced across my admiration radar with a bountiful blip.  No, I never did jail time, (though I was paddy-wagoned twice in ’68 in Chicago), but before her stint in the slammer, Martha introduced America to a life and entertaining ‘style’ … not for those ladies who held grand cocktail and dinner parties for the glitterati, but for the average American woman (OK, men, too) who wanted to tastefully (literally and figuratively) host a memorable party at home on a middle-class budget.  Martha’s knowledge of home design, cooking, gardening and, yes, marketing still astounds me.  Why, you might ask?  Well, even if you don’t, I’ll tell you.

As much as I love going to parties, I love, love, love throwing parties!!!  For twenty years my husband and I (in NYC, later LA) threw an annual Oscar party for 20-30 people.  To feed the crowd cheaply (we’re both writers, need I say more?), I’d make big bowls of baked ziti and green leaf salads, with nibble sides like chips and cheese and crackers. This was pre-discovery of Martha.  But it was our annual Christmas Eve holiday party held for over two decades in LA that became a tradition for 30-50 of our friends and their families. That’s when I began to channel the marvelous Ms. Martha.  Gourmet and design on a budget.

My husband during our (well, his more than mine) TV/film careers in LA had morphed into an incredible cook at the time chefs were becoming household names.  Over the years, Richard did his own Martha-channeling and moved from making basic turkeys, honey-baked hams and simple salads, into French cassoulets, gourmet beef or turkey chilis, fancy pastas, and not so simple salads, all on a budget for our open house (I did my Martha-thing by decorating every room). 

 

 

I even started a blog (this blog) honoring his culinary growth. www.mydinnerswithrichard.blogspot.com – but I digress...   

When we left the freeways behind and escaped to Ojai, our first months in town were lonely… we hadn’t met too many people and the thought of spending the holiday season without our LA friends was depressing.  Had we met enough people to perhaps throw a little holiday cocktail party that would end early enough for folks to party hop elsewhere and take away my holiday doldrums?  We invited 20-25 people we sort of knew and two long-time L.A. friends who had trail-blazed our move to this stimulating people-populated valley paradise.  I decorated and Richard planned his cocktail food menu.  Much to our surprise, every invitee came and a new annual tradition was started.

Whether the weather be warm or cold, a hosting trick I learned from Ms. Martha is to always keep the bar separate from the food so guests don’t congregate in just one area…  so, if it’s not raining, I set up our self-help, full self-service bar (or wine bar – depending on our budget) outside...

...with the cocktail food arranged inside on the dining and coffee tables.  



 If you can’t put your bar outside, put it in another room or across the party room from the food.

Besides a crudités platter (now with brie and other “exotic” cheeses, meats, nuts and fancy olives), we have offered stuffed endive leaves, pate - not expensive French pate, but my family’s make it yourself, Pate Therese (https://mydinnerswithrichard.blogspot.com/2009/10/holidays-are-coming.html), or for your vegetarian guests, this faux chopped ‘chicken liver’ spread https://mydinnerswithrichard.blogspot.com/2010/10/faux-chopped-chicken-liver-for-my-faux.html 

  and new and improved deviled eggs, truffled  (https://mydinnerswithrichard.blogspot.com/2009/12/welll-ill-be-truffled.html ), and other budget finger choices... 

plus Richard’s poached whole salmon filet, served at room temp with his homemade champagne or dill sauce to be scooped onto toast points (yes, we’re now “on point”), and a delicious creamy dilled shrimp hors d’oeuvre to spear with a toothpick and pop in your mouth (recipe below).

 

Always re-inventing herself, I still check out Martha’s latest cooking/design advice and think it’s cool she’s teamed up with Snoop Dog, which opened up a whole new smorgasbord of “edibles.”

This holiday season, channel your inner Martha, my dears, during this most wonderful time of the year. Throw a budget friendly cocktail party – your friends and family will eat it up.

 

DILLED SHRIMP

Ingredients:

1-1/2 cups of mayonnaise

1/3 cup lemon juice

1/4 cup sugar

1/2 cup dairy sour cream

1 large red onion thinly sliced

2 tablespoons dry dill

1/4 teaspoon salt

2 lbs. cooked medium shrimp

 

In a large bowl, mix mayonnaise, lemon juice, sugar, sour cream, onion, dill and salt.  Stir in shrimp. 

Cover and refrigerate overnight. Stir once or as many times you want.  We’re not stir-free here…

Serve with tooth picks… along with other nibbles, or even a few of Snoop’s edibles.

 

Merry Christmas and Happy Holidays...



Monday, July 31, 2023

THE SUMMIT DRIVE-IN - A True Burger Joint

 

THE SUMMIT DRIVE-IN

A True Burger Joint



Dave Cagnacci, a/k/a Private Chef Dave, was trained at the Scottsdale Culinary Institute and for twenty plus years, give or take a year or two, worked in restaurants and catered parties, large and small.   But, like screenwriters who really want to direct… it was Chef Dave’s long-held desire to own a burger joint.

Before McDonald’s, et al, over-populated the planet, burger diners, dives, drive-ins, shacks and stands a/k/a “burger joints” dotted the American landscape.  I was seven when I first fell in love with such a joint.  Vacationing in Massachusetts, my father drove our family to a popular outdoor burger stand for dinner. We all loved burgers, so I was shocked when I heard him order cheeseburgers.  “What’s a cheeseburger?” I asked my mom (remember, this was before the McDonald’s blitzkrieg). Cheese on ground beef?  But, when I took that first glorious bite of that burger stuffed into a white bread bun, smothered with American cheese melting over its edges, a chorus of cheese-elujahs sang in my head. That moment was only enhanced as the sun set over the burger shack, as lightning bugs lit up the sky.  

Over the years, I’ve often wondered what genius first melted a slice of cheese on a burger.  He or she should be in the culinary history books!  I even went to the big public libraries in Boston and New York, but was never able to find that answer.  Finally, Google came to my rescue… to paraphrase:

As the legend goes, in 1926, sixteen-year-old Lionel Sternberger (Really! What better name!) was flipping burgers at his father’s restaurant, the Rite Spot in Pasadena, California.  Bored, Lionel decided to slap a slice of American cheese onto a sizzling burger frying on the grill.  After a bite, his dad most likely heard the same heavenly chorus I did, as the “cheese hamburger” was soon on the menu.  Others have laid claim to discovering this food phenom, but it was a bored sixteen-year-old boy (aren’t all teenagers bored?!) who deserves the honor. To paraphrase a famous quote from the classic movie western, “The Man Who Shot Liberty Valance”… “if you have to choose between fact or legend, print the legend.”

Dave Cagnacci was probably not thinking of history at all in 2016, when he, along with his wife Rachel, finally realized his dream and became the proud owners of The Summit Drive-In, one of the last standing burger stands in Southern California.  Over the years, I’ve recreated my seven-year-old summer experience when I could, but mom and pop outdoor burger joints have been slowly dying, so when I was introduced to Ojai’s iconic burger drive-in (which was never actually a drive-in, more a drive-up), I would become that seven-year-old every time I ate there, devouring one of The Summit’s beef or veggie cheeseburger choices.  Feeling patriotic?  Bite into the Red, White & Blue burger with grilled onions, blue cheese, lettuce, tomato & secret sauce. Or go “white meat” with one of its chicken sandwiches, such as the crispy western chicken sandwich with onion rings, cheddar cheese, bacon and the Summit’s homemade BBQ sauce.  Rachel, The Summit’s general manager, oversees it all.  




Some other favorites on the “of the era” menu: tuna and burger melts, BLTs, and a pulled pork sandwich with coleslaw and pepper cheese. Naturally, French fries and onion rings are among the sides, but check out the mac&cheese bites.  Of course, all of its seasonings, rubs and secret sauces are made “in house.” Kids even have their own special menu, including corn dogs and chicken tenders, and drinks range from shakes and floats to sodas. Top off your meal with the stand’s ice cream sundae.  For early birds, try a breakfast burrito or sandwich with your coffee.  The restaurant also offers corn burritos, rated at the top of the charts by the “I Love Corn Burritos Group” which critiques corn burritos around the area on its Facebook page.  And, give The Summit a call to find out when its famous summer and fall weekend offering of special BBQ tri-tip is happening… that alone is worth the drive-up.    



 

But Private Chef Dave, now via The Summit Drive-In, hasn’t stopped catering.  In the valley, his food has graced wedding receptions, local Air BnBs, bed & breakfast inns, even private poker games, and special events at places around town, such as Boccali’s, Thacher School, and Monica Ros School.  Recently, he catered the Rotary Club of Ojai’s 75th Anniversary party for 150 people. 

The Summit, originally known as Fay’s Place, was built on the crest of the dividing line of Upper Ojai and Santa Paula in 1961, and has ever since been a burger stand and watering hole for Ojai residents, hikers and bikers, tourists, or travelers just out to enjoy the scenery.

A bit of Summit lore:  Family and friends’ happy moments and memories are nurtured there.  One story Dave likes to tell is, back in the day when The Summit was Fay’s Place, a reform school was across the street.  One dedicated teacher would often take one of her students to Fay’s Place for lunch where they would bond over burgers and fries.  The reform school has since closed and Fay’s Place became The Summit Drive-In, but over those years, the teacher and her student stayed connected, and not long ago recreated their lunch experience at The Summit, sharing moments and memories.

 

The Cagnacci family are 4th generation residents of Ojai and Ventura with roots in the food business going back to the early 1900s.  The Summit Drive-In, run by “a team of family and friends who love to run a restaurant and cater to folks who like to entertain,” has survived the Thomas Fire that started nearby and which devastated the neighboring landscape. Firetrucks parked in the restaurant’s lot allowed firefighters to keep an eye on its survival.  Then the pandemic hit.  But this iconic burger joint was kept alive with the help of a steady stream of longtime customers.

On a personal note, The Summit Drive-In brings back so many joyful memories of my first burger shack/stand experience with its outdoor picnic-esque atmosphere.  I love trying this joint’s new cheeseburgers and crispy chicken sandwiches… so much so, I’ve been known to order one of each when I’m there (a dietary habit that keeps me going to the gym).  Drive out and drive up to the drive-in with family or friends.  No doubt, you will create your own memorable moments and joyful memories.

Summit Drive-In is available for private parties and catering: (805) 798-7742

Located at 12689 Santa Paula Ojai Road (Hwy150) Santa Paula, California 93060

www.summitdrivein.com

www.facebook.comSummitDriveIn/

The Summit Drive-In is also on Instagram