Saturday, November 30, 2019

THE BOOKS OF RUTH - Lunch With Ruth Reichl

This is my latest Food & Drink column in the winter issue of the Ojai Quarterly magazine.  Sadly, I was too busy eating or taking pix, I didn't get pix of all the food or of Ruth signing her new book.

Lunch With Ruth Reichl

I love to eat.  Cooking?  Not so much.  But I do love to read cookbooks.  Well, not really “read” as I barely scan the recipes, it’s the pictures of food that tantalize my tongue… how that food is plated, the dishes used – you know, “food porn.”  Of course, I then show these pictures to my husband, who does love to cook, and ask him to work some culinary mojo.

I first met six-times James Beard Award winner Ruth Reichl (virtually) when my husband brought home “The Gourmet Cookbook,” her massive tome with the heft and weight of a family bible. The comparison is apt, since it became his cooking bible.  There are no pictures, but I’ve salivated over every meal he’s made from that book and took my own pictures.  In the past, I had often thought of writing about food, but I was a political satirist and wrote comedic essays and scripts for TV.  Food writers seemed to take their craft quite seriously… that is until I discovered the Book of Ruth.

My second virtual introduction to Ruth took place when my book group chose her 2001 memoir, “Comfort Me with Apples.”  I fell in love with her conversational writing flare that recounted how she became a food critic.  Her travel adventures that focused on the world’s cuisines were funny and informative.  I was so inspired by her stories that I started a food blog.  Ruth showed me that writing about food can be fun, often “tongue-in-cheek,” even tongue-in-cheeky.  I saw how it was possible to pen a mini-memoir about a homecooked meal or a restaurant dinner that made readers relate.  So, when I read that Ruth was going to do a book signing at a luncheon at the Ojai Valley Inn & Spa’s Farmhouse, I begged and pleaded with my publisher/editor (strategic tears in my eyes) that the Quarterly send me to cover the event.  OK, no tears (poetic license), but he agreed.  That was all that mattered.

The Farmhouse is a twenty-million dollar food event venue with a huge barn-like structure that houses a large “open to the room” working kitchen and space for many tables, plus lovely grounds that can host all sorts of parties, from weddings to masked balls (that is, if anyone still does masked balls). 

Inside the barn, folks were mingling while sipping fine wine and nibbling on pink deviled eggs..

 ... buckwheat blinis with salmon roe......
  ... and tomato gazpacho passed on trays by Farmhouse servers.

Internationally known chef and author Nancy Silverton, an old acquaintance of mine from my LA days, is one of the Farmhouse’s culinary ambassadors, so I was excited to see her at the luncheon to introduce her old friend, Ruth, and to mingle with the guests.
Nancy Silverton & Ruth Reichl
Nancy & Bret Bradigan, my publisher/editor
 Ruth briefly talked about her time at Gourmet Magazine and why writing “Save Me The Plums” about that era of her life, was important to her… how the publisher, Conde Nast supported her vision and never micro-managed, giving her carte blanche to push the food magazine envelope… a freedom given an editor that few, if any, publisher allows today.  She rewarded that trust by straddling the fence, continuing to give old subscribers what they wanted while bringing a new approach to the magazine that would garner new subscribers.  It was also important to her that this new book clearly demonstrate that women can be mothers while having a challenging career.

During the Q&A after her brief talk, Ruth was asked… “If given the choice, what would be your last meal?”

“A meal that never ends,” she replied with a smile.
We then started our family-style meal.  

 Bowls and plates of hummus, a Moroccan salad, broccoli rabe bruschetta, and borscht salad almost magically appeared on the table...
Moroccan salad
broccoli rabe bruschetta
borscht salad

 along with bottles of 2017 Dampt “Cote de Lechet” Chablis Premier Cru.

While I wandered through the barn taking pictures, serving plates with new dishes arrived, filled with Pollo alla Diavola (Devil’s Chicken an intensely seasoned burst of flavor), grilled sea bass with salsa verde, spicy Tuscan kale, and corn pudding.  Bottles of 2017 Domaine Marc Roy Gevrey-Chambertin Pinot Noir also arrived. But, by the time I returned to my table, the sea bass was gone. I made up for it by having two helpings of the Devil’s Chicken.

Of course, no luncheon is complete without dessert and we had two choices, luscious strawberry shortcake or a totally tarty “tart lemon tart.”

It was time for the book signing.  I wanted to tell Ruth how much she has meant to me as a food writer.  How she influenced my approach to food writing.  How she makes me laugh (and hungry) when I read her books, but the book line was too long, so I just said that I was a fan and thanked her for coming to Ojai.

As the holiday season is upon us, I had planned to leave you with a favorite Ruth Reichl holiday recipe from The Gourmet Cookbook, but as I was reading “Save Me The Plums,” what could be more perfect than her Thanksgiving turkey chili, a dish she and her staff made as a thank you for rescue workers at Ground Zero?

Ruth Reichl’s Thanksgiving Turkey Chili recipe:


1 tablespoon cumin seeds
3 canned whole chipotle chilies in adobo
1 bottle dark beer
2 pounds tomatillos (husked, rinsed & quartered)
3 tablespoons vegetable oil
3 large onions, chopped
½ cup fresh cilantro, chopped
2 teaspoons fresh oregano, finely minced
2 jalapenos, diced (if you don’t like heat
   remove the seeds)
3-1/2 pounds ground turkey
1-1/2 cups chicken broth
8 large cloves of garlic, peeled but left whole
1 bay leaf
2 cups cooked white beans
1 4-ounce can diced green chili peppers
Cream sherry
Balsamic vinegar
Sour cream


1.      Toast the cumin seeds in a dry skillet until they’re fragrant.  Allow to cool, then grind to powder.
2.      Puree the chipotle chilies with the adobo.

3.      Put the beer into a medium-sized pot, add the tomatillos, bring to a boil, and turn the heat down to a simmer.  Cook for about 5 minutes, until the tomatillos are soft.  Strain the tomatillos (reserving liquid) and puree in a blender or food processor.  Pour back into the pot with the beer.

4.      Slick the bottom of a large casserole with a couple of tablespoons of oil, and saut√© the onions until they’re translucent.Add the cilantro, oregano, jalapenos and cumin and stir for a couple of minutes.  Break the turkey into the mixture and stir until it just starts to lose its raw color.   Add the pureed tomatillos and beer, the chipotle puree, the chicken broth, and the garlic, along with a couple of teaspoons of salt and the bay leaf, and simmer the mixture for about an hour and a half.

5.      With a large spoon, smash the now-soft cloves of garlic and stir them into the chili.  Add the white beans and diced chili peppers and taste for salt.  At this point I like to start playing with the flavors, adding a few splashes of cream sherry, a bit of balsamic vinegar, or perhaps some soy sauce or fish sauce.  Heat for another 10 minutes.

6.      Serve with sour cream.
Serves 8

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