ANOTHER WINE TASTING SLEEPOVER IN ARROYO GRANDE -

 

Covid!  Covid!  Covid!  How everyone's lives have changed since the onset of the pandemic.  We are so fortunate that all our friends have been vaccinated and we've been able to see them in small groups inside and larger groups outside.  Like most people, we've stayed close to home, but our desire to leave our pretty valley has magnified.  Hell, we were stir crazy... and then, like manna from heaven, came an invitation from dear friends, Candace and Craig Anderson to venture north to Arroyo Grande for a sleepover in their beautiful 'home away from home'.  Before we finished texting 'yes,' we were packing an overnight bag.

Much like Ojai, Arroyo Grande is a rural town surrounded by orchards and ranches and vineyards.  Fabulous vineyards, I might add and I've written about many of them. Yet, still close to larger towns and a stone's throw from the Pacific.

As we traveled north on the 101 with a shortcut detour through beautiful Santa Ynez and a lunch stop at The Wine Merchant (our favorite watering hole in the darling town of Los Olivos), we arrived at Candace & Craig's around 2-ish.  We visited for a while before heading out to Chamisal Vineyards one of their favorite wineries (and ours) with a large outdoor venue, perfect during this pandemic period.

Check out our first visit to this delicious winery.   https://mydinnerswithrichard.blogspot.com/2012/10/a-sleepover-in-arroyo-grande-pt-1.html

The weather was perfect.  We were ushered to a picnic table for four.

Place mats with 5 circles drawn on it where a glass of wine would be were on the table.  Written under each circle was a description of the wine we were about to taste. 

 

We started with the 2018 Estate Chardonnay and the 2018 Califa Chardonnay both with flavors of vanilla custard (and who doesn't have fond memories of vanilla custard from their childhood?), lemon, and hints of other fruits.  I'm a chardonnay drinker, so I can be quite choosy (and critical) of chardonnays, but both these wines were just what the doctor ordered.  So, of course, I had to buy a bottle (Califa) for medicinal purposes.

Next were the 2018 Estate Pinot Noir and the 2018 Califa Pinot Noir.  Again, both were delicious with various scents and taste nuances that boasted a few earthy notes.  The Estate pinot was mellow and light and no back taste. I liked that.

The last was a 2016 Califa Syrah with aromas of violets, black pepper, olives and smoked meat.  I wanted a rare New York steak with some steamed asparagus to 'go with.'

Check out Chamisal's website for prices and wine club membership.  chamisalvineyards.com

Arroyo Grande, like Ojai, has become a weekend tourist town with packed restaurants and parking hard to find... even during Covid, because most restaurants in both towns have outdoor dining.

So, as the tasting room was closing, we headed back to our hosts' cozy home to drink more wine (of course) and prepare dinner.

What a perfect reprieve from our Covid stir craziness...  Thank you Candace & Craig!

Chamisal Vineyards

7525 Orcutt Road - San Luis Obispo, Ca. 93401

805-242-7326

 

A SLEEPOVER IN ARROYO GRANDE - Pt. 1 - (Chamisal Vineyards)

A SLEEPOVER IN ARROYO GRANDE

Part 1

(CHAMISAL VINEYARDS)

It had been blistering in Los Angeles for weeks and weeks, so when our friends, Candace and Craig, invited us for a sleepover at their lovely weekend home “up north,” we were packed and in our car in a NY minute.  “Up north” was Arroyo Grande (AG), a charming little town near San Luis Obispo and Pismo Beach, set among rolling vineyards...

... and wonderful wineries and tasting rooms.

When we left that Saturday morning, the temperature was already in the 90’s (at 9:30 a.m.!), and as we drove through the Valleys toward Santa Barbara, it peaked at 103.  Folks down south and back east always smile when So. Californians complain because our heat is “dry” heat, they say… Well, not this summer.  Humidity covered Los Angeles like a wet dog who had no intention of leaving.  Who says there’s no climate change?  If I wanted humidity, I’d have never left Manhattan.

But, as we passed Santa Barbara and headed into the mountains, we forgot the heat and humidity (we were in an air-conditioned car, after all) and gazed at the beautiful scenery.  We made a pit stop in the quaint town of Los Olivos and checked out the latest wines in the Wine Merchant Café, our favorite little wine shop/restaurant in town.

http://mydinnerswithrichard.blogspot.com/2010/03/sideways-sunday.html

We arrived in AG just in time for lunch and hung out in the cooler climes till it was wine tasting time.

Our first stop was Chamisal Vineyards.  In existence since 1973, Chamisal is the first vineyard planted in the Edna Valley.

The tasting room is in a big red barn affair in the midst of one of its vineyards.   

The tasting room was crowded...

 

...so we, along with Candace and Craig’s beautiful daughter, Liza, opted for a table outside overlooking the vineyard.

(oops - where's Richard?)

There he is!

First in flight was the 2011 Estate Pinot Gris ($24) - as advertised this is a Pinot Gris, not a Pinot Grigio. It’s the same grape but is produced in the Alsace style, making it richer and fuller, which I prefer. I liked it.

Next up was the 2010 Califa Chardonnay ($40) made over 14 months (and lots of tastings) from the wineries very best blocks and clones. I really loved its density and rich citrus flavor with a hint of butterscotch.  Yum.

Moving to “reds” – we sipped the 2011 Stainless Pinot Noir ($24).  No oak or malolactic fermentation (converting tart tasting malic acid found in grape must to softer tasting lactic acid), it’s fresh and fruity with hints of pepper. It’s said to be similar in style to a Beaujolais Nouveau, and I agree. Just slightly chilled, it’s awesome.

We followed up with the 2010 Califa Pinot Noir ($60), a classic pinot noir filled with rich ripe fruit and spice flavors.  And, I love the classics.

Last, but certainly not least since it was my favorite tasting at Chamisal, was the 2009 Estate Grenache ($38).  Doing the ritual ‘sniff” before sipping, I felt I was Brer Rabbit – “don’t throw me into the strawberry patch” when he was really thinking “throw me in.” The strong strawberry scent, mixed with tastes of cedar, red cherries and touches of pepper and anise, put me in red wine wonderland.  I really loved this velvety wine.

Our smooth flight over, it was time to see what our next landing would be like.

CHAMISAL VINEYARDS

7525 Orcutt Road

San Luis Obispo, California 93401

805-541-9463 - 866-808-9463

www.chamisalvineyards.com

TASTING IN ARROYO GRANDE - Laetitia Vineyard & Winery

 

TASTING IN ARROYO GRANDE

Laetitia Vineyard & Winery

Before heading back to LA, Richard and I had one more winery stop in Arroyo Grande...

 

Laetitia Vineyard & Winery has been making wines since 1982… and its brochure promises: “The Land Is Ours – The Grapes Are Ours – The Wine… Is Yours.”  OK, we’d bite.  Well, “sip” anyway.

 

Selim Zilkha, the founder of a successful wind power development company and champion of environmental sustainability, is the winery’s current owner and has insured that all Laetitia wines are “sustainably-produced.”  He’s also done a fine job to insure that they taste good, too!

The tasting room amid the sprawling vineyard is in a large modern structure with a manicured front lawn adorned w/ Adirondack chairs and yellow and white striped umbrellas, allowing tasters to sip wine as they enjoy the gorgeous vineyard view.

 

Inside, the room has a barn-like feeling with its beams, pitched ceilings, and wooden barrel tasting tables. 

We opted for the tasting bar.   Bob, w/ a welcoming twinkle in his eye, was our barista.

One of the first things we noticed was a very large bottle on the fireplace mantel behind the bar w/ the mask of the Phantom of Opera as its label. 

   

As Bob poured our flight, he told us that Laetitia was chosen to supply wine for the Phantom movie’s opening night party.  To honor the occasion, the winery commissioned an artist to etch the Phantom logo into the glass of the magnum.  When the party was over and the clean-up underway, the winery crew found the bottle in the trash.  Aware of the work and creativity that went into designing that bottle they rescued it and brought it home to the winery, where it proudly sits, perched on that mantel like the treasured art piece it is.  Oh, those movie people!  What do they know?  At least they didn’t try to sell it on eBay.

Our tasting started with a couple of whites:  the 2010 chardonnay ($18) and the Nadia White, a blend of 56% viognier, 33% Grenache blanc and 11% Roussanne ($30) – Both wines, simply stated, were sublime, especially the Nadia White!

Laetitia is famous for its pinot noirs (434 acres of pinot noir grapes), so we were anxious to move from blanc to noir…

We tasted four: The 2009 Estate Pinot Noir ($25), the 2009 Reserve DuDomaine ($40), the 2007 Single Vineyard La Solline ($60) and the 2007 Single Vineyard Les Galets (The Rocks) ($60).  Even before “Sideways” pinot noir was Richard’s favorite red wine grape and would be happy serving and sipping any of these wines paired w/ salmon, or roast turkey, or a crown roast pork or just w/ nothing but a glass to pour it in.  I agree.  All these wines deserved their over 90 pt. ratings from Wine Enthusiast. 

Time to move from the pinot noirs to the more earthy full-bodied reds.

First up was the 2009 Barnwood Grenache ($22) - Laetitia’s Barnwood label, as Bob explained, is dedicated to Bordeaux and Rhone wines, and are made from grapes from the highest vineyard in Santa Barbara.  And this wine lived up to that heritage… smooth to the taste w/ hints of cherry and tobacco.

Our next taste was the 2008 Laetitia Syrah ($25) – w/ a deep plum color, I tasted berry pie and spices as my nose was filled w/ aromas cedar and rose.  A garden of earthly delights in a bottle.

Last but not least, Bob poured the 2006 Barnwood Port ($30) – a cab/cab franc blend – this is a spectacular, full-bodied wine w/ all the dark cocoa and citrus notes you want in a good port w/ a little graham cracker to conjure up thoughts of s’mores and more.

Our tasting done, Bob had one more thing he wanted to share w/ us.  A silver saddle.  We were intrigued.  Why would a winery display a saddle… silver or otherwise?  Well, as he told it, Laetitia had entered a Houston Rodeo Wine competition and became Grand Champion for red and was awarded the silver saddle.  And, like the Phantom bottle, the saddle was displayed proudly.  And that’s a saddle tale if I ever heard one.

So, if you saddle up and ride into Arroyo Grande, you won’t be sorry if you sidle up to the Laetitia Vineyard and Winery. (I know, I know... my fingers made my type that...)

Laetitia Vineyard & Winery

453 Laetitia Vineyard Drive

Arroyo Grande, Calif.  93420

888-809-VINE

http://www.laetitiawine.com/

TASTING IN ARROYO GRANDE - Kynsi Vineyards & Winery

TASTING IN ARROYO GRANDE

Kynsi Vineyards & Winery

As we drove through the “Tuscany-lite” landscape, our next ‘tasting’ stop was Kynsi Vineyards & Winery.  The winery itself is in a renovated 1940’s dairy farm.  

 
The cozy tasting room is located in the old milk processing room, but tall barrels are set up just outside the room for outdoor tasting.

Richard, Candace and I opted for the tasting room where the charming sisters, Allyson and Brittni, were our baristas.

As we sipped wine, we learned that the winery was started by a Finnish family 17 years ago. I burst w/ Finnish pride since all my grandparents came from Finland (there’s not a double “a” in my last name for nothing), but then I thought:  Finns make wine? 

When I asked about the winery’s name and owl logo, the girls told us that when the winery was set up in the neglected old dairy, they had a gopher plague of “historic proportions.”  Because owls are gophers’ #1 predator, owls were moved into the barn at the same time the family was figuring out a name and label for their wines.  The gophers disappeared, so since the owl represents wisdom and is a good omen, the family chose the Finnish word “Kynsi,” meaning “talon” to honor their owls and to pay homage to their family heritage… and the owl label?  According to the winery’s website, “the female in her preening pose was chosen to represent our brand, a pedestal duly earned.”  I liked that! 

Allyson and Brittni started our flight w/ the 2009 Edna Valley Chardonnay ($18).  Dreamy creamy dance of honeydew, macadamia nut, honey and mango.  A mango tango!

The 2009 Barn Owl Blush ($18), a central coast pinot noir rose is a blend of fruit and vanilla aromas w/ tastes of fruit and almonds.  A portion of all proceeds from the sale of this pink wine is fittingly donated to breast cancer research and awareness.  This wine is also very delicious and when Candace came for dinner last night, she surprised us by bringing a bottle that we served w/ salmon stuffed w/ roasted peppers, spinach and walnuts. 

OK, enough gushing about the blush.

We then sipped three pinot noirs:  A 2007 Edna Valley pinot ($32) w/ hints of raspberries, cola, a bit of pepper and maple syrup.  A divine wine – just don’t pour it on your pancakes!

Next up was the 2008 Bien Nacido Vineyard, Santa Maria Valley pinot ($39) which had a silky texture w/ aromas of cherry and violets and tastes of black raspberries and a hint of tea – giving new meaning to “high” tea.

The third pinot was the Estate Pinot – Stone Corral Vineyard, Edna Valley ($48)...

 
...that balanced berries and oranges and hints of allspice that made this a truly lovely wine.   

Next up was Hutash (Harvest Celebration) – Harvest Cuvee, Central Coast ($28) – a 50% grenache, 25% syrah, 25% pinot noir blend that had scents of plums and mulberry, pepper and flowers and tastes of cherries, bay leaves and strawberry jam.  I loved this wine.

The Merrah – San Luis Obispo County ($22) – 65% merlot, 35% syrah was a rich red wine w/ a nose of dark plums, blueberries, allspice and vanilla that you could also taste, along w/ a bit of cola and cherries.  The merrah the merrier.

Another favorite of mine was the 2006 Syrah – Edna Ranch Vineyard, Edna Valley ($28) – rich fruit and ‘earthy’ aromas w/ fruit, herbs and even chocolate tastes.

And last, but absolutely not least, was the delicious 2007 Syrah – Kalanna, Edna Valley ($44) – a truly smooth, rich, velvety wine w/ a bouquet of blackberries, nutmeg and violets w/richly layered tastes of  berries, pepper and cocoa. 

So, to answer my own question:  “Finns make wine?”  Yup.  Evidently not all of us live in climes of terminal winter milking cows.  A few make very good wine.   Kippis!!!!  That’s Finnish for skoal.

Kynsi Vineyards & Winery

2212 Corbett Canyon Road

Arroyo Grande, CA 93420

805-544-8461

info@kynsi.com

www.kynsi.com

TASTING IN ARROYO GRANDE - Talley Vineyards

TASTING IN ARROYO GRANDE

Talley Vineyards

Day two in Arroyo Grande had us leaving Craig & Candace’s charming cottage above the creek for a long walk along the Pacific coast...

 

all the way to Pismo Beach.   

 

That would have been a great walk, but noooooo, we then had to walk back.  Candace is in way better shape (as is Richard) than I am, so by the time we returned to the car two hours later, every old knee, hip and joint injury I ever suffered from dance or cheerleading or volleyball or tennis or softball decided to make an unwelcomed appearance.  A few Advil later and a fabulous cheeseburger lunch (my not so NuAtkins reward – hey, I burned a lot of calories, right?!) made it all worthwhile.

It was now time for wine tasting.  First on our itinerary was Talley Vineyards – so it was tally ho and go (I know, I know – my hound, if I had a hound, made me write that).

The tasting room, a lovely Spanish structure w/ a manicured courtyard...

is surrounded by acres of grapevines.  The setting definitely set the mood.

Anna, our lovely and knowledgeable barista set wine glasses in front of us and began the pour.  

Private Tasting Room

Our first taste was the 2010 Bishop’s Peak Riesling ($16) – Estate grown, this was one of the closest Rieslings for me to the really good, dry Rieslings we had when Richard and I were in Germany.  Fruity aromas w/ hints of honeysuckle and vanilla and fresh tastes of citrus w/ only a slight sweet finish.    Delikat!

Next we tried the 2009 Talley Vineyards Edna Valley Chardonnay ($19.20) – a nice, medium-bodied, oak-y wine w/ citrus flavors that made me think how much I’d love to be sipping this as I cracked the shell of a steamed lobster and dipped the meat in warm clarified butter. 

The 2009 Talley Vineyards Estate Chardonnay ($26) aged 30% in new French oak had all the fruit aroma bells and whistles, but w/ a little roasted almonds thrown in.  Smelled good – tasted even better.  A good wine paired w/ cheese, fish or chicken.

Our last white was 2009 Oliver’s Vineyard Chardonnay ($32) aged 16 months in 30% French oak.  It had that creamy finish I love in a chardonnay.

Our first red was the 2009 Bishop’s Peak Pinot Noir ($20) – a really nice silky wine w/ cherry notes and a hint of anise for the nose.  Notes and nose.  I think there’s a song there somewhere.  Cole Porter where are you when we need you?  It’s delightful, it’s delicious, it’s de-lovely…

2009 Talley Vineyards Estate Pinot Noir ($36) – this is an earthy, lush, but not heavy, red that has aromas of cherries and figs – even a hint of lavender.  Lavender festivals of the world, take note of this nose.

The 2007 Bishop’s Peak Rock Solid Red ($14) is a blend of 60% syrah, 20% cab franc, 10% cabernet sauvignon, and 10% petite syrah – this is a delicious, “big” red table wine.  Want to have it w/ your grilled steak or burger?  Perfect.  And what a pairing it would make w/ pizza or lasagna.  It’s a yum from me.

Last but not least was my favorite of the Talley wines – the 2008 Bishop’s Peak Petite Sirah ($25) – a deep royal purple-y red in color, it was a wine fit for the royals.  Breathing in the wine like Paul Giamatti in “Sideways” I smelled the cedar and dates and maple syrup and strong dark fruits.  I don’t know which was more satisfying – the aroma or the rich fruit taste w/ soft tannins.  It was the finest wine among fine wines.

After 25 years in the wine making business, Talley Vineyards has definitely learned its craft and can be found nationally or ordered online through its wine club.

It was time to say good bye to Anna… but Talley Vineyards was a great way to start the day’s wine tasting adventure.

TASTING IN ARROYO GRANDE - Phantom Rivers Wine

 

TASTING IN ARROYO GRANDE

Phantom Rivers Wine

Our friends, Candace and Craig, own a beautiful, “weekend” cottage in Arroyo Grande (translation: large creek) California, complete with a crackling creek (un poco not grande) running through the back of their property.   

Recently, Candace invited us there for the weekend (hence the “weekend” cottage moniker).

In the evening, sitting on the deck sipping wine many feet above the crackling creek, is like sitting in a beautifully landscaped tree house.   

 

Amid the tall trees, sloping hillside and lower decks...

...Craig has created a little Garden of Eden.  I definitely could live there.

When we did leave the cottage, we strolled Branch Street (Arroyo Grande’s charming “Main Street”), walked the trails to Pismo beach and winery hopped, sipping the wines fantastic.  Yup, the area’s filled w/ some great wineries.  I told you I could live there.

Our first winery stop was Phantom Rivers Wine right on Branch and a stone’s throw from the cottage.   

 

It was cool early in the early evening so we grabbed sweaters and walked to town.

The tasting room is a charming blue bungalow that was built in 1905 w/ a front porch, a small back deck and three rooms to sit and sip.   

We opted for the front room and sidled up to the bar.  Our barista, Debbie Rau, the tasting room manager, told us that the winery was created in 2004 by The Nipomo Wine Group, four couples who love wine and love living in California’s central coast.  They named their winery Phantom Rivers after the rivers of fog that fill the central coast valleys, keeping the vineyards cool at night and early morning, then evaporating into the air like a… phantom.

We started w/ the 2008 Chardonnay, Edna Ranch ($22).  I’m a chardonnay fan, and I loved this wine which was aged in a combination of French oak and stainless steel.  Crisp, yet those hints of vanilla and spices were there to tantalize my tongue.

Next was the 2009 Luna Rosa, a Paso Robles blush wine ($14) made from 100% zinfandel grapes.  Yes, the winery calls it “blush,” not rose, but it’s a fine rose to me (a rose by any other name…) and the perfect wine to sip on a summer’s evening while sitting on Candace & Craig’s deck musing over the flora and fauna and that crackling creek.

One of my favorite Phantom Rivers wines was the 2009 Grenache, Santa Barbara Highlands ($24), aged for 16 months in light American oak.  It had the aroma of a candied apple and tastes of vanilla and butterscotch.  I kid you not.  I could smell and drink this wine in a closet and be totally happy in the dark.  Does this make me a closet Grenache lover?

The 2007 Pinot Noir, Wolff Vineyard ($26) was aged in a combination of new and neutral oak barrels for 15 months.  A bit of cherry, strawberry and spice – I wondered if it was the new oak or the old that added the spice?  Did the new add the cherry or was that the old?  What about that strawberry?  I may never understand the complexities of winemaking – but I know what I like and I liked this pinot.

Onto the 2006 Cabernet Sauvignon, Still Waters Vineyard ($22), a full-bodied wine.  Aged for 15 months in American oak, this wine w/ its hints of currants and cherries made me think grilled sirloin.  Of course, almost any full-bodied red makes me think of steak.  Red meat, red wine – no blushing here!

Another favorite of mine was the 2006 Syrah, Central Coast ($20).  This wine was aged in American and French oak barrels for 18 months and its flavors of rich red fruit, pepper and spice make this a great wine for the price.  Again which country’s barrels did what – I didn’t care, I just wanted to keep sipping…

The 2006 Paso del Sol – 65% syrah, 20% cab & 15% mourvedre ($30) was created as a tribute to the local Santa Maria style tri-tip.  I’ve never had this particular tri-tip, but this wine is certainly worth trying w/ tri-tips from anywhere.

You know how fashion shows always end w/ a bridal gown?   The crème de la crème of the runway?  Well, most good wine tastings end w/ the dessert wine and the Paso Robles 2009 Zin Port put the crème in the de la crème.  So deelish, in fact, that Candace bought two bottles.

So if you’re passing through town, park your car and walk up the front porch steps and into a fine wine experience.   

 

Or go online and check out the wine club.  You’ll be happy you did.

Phantom Rivers Wine

211 E. Branch Street

Arroyo Grande, CA 93420

805-481-9463

http://www.phantomrivers.com/