DINING AT TABLE 18

 DINING AT TABLE 18

Moving to a new place, whether it's a village, town or city presents its challenges.  I mean really, where do you get your hair highlighted and cut?  Where's the best mani/pedi?  And, what about finding a good mechanic or a decent cheeseburger?  All challenges that need to be addressed when you've moved to someplace new.

But, then, there are some wonderful discoveries you find as you explore your new home town.  In my case, a thriving theater and art community, beautiful mountain and valley trails to hike, new restaurants and wineries to review, and two new favorite women's boutiques that sell that layered, drape-y Kate Hepburn-style clothes I like.

Not to mention the more elusive discoveries known primarily to only those in the know.  Private Chef Robin Goldstein's Table 18 is one of those discoveries.

Richard and I first met Robin when we took the Ojai Artists' Studio Tour.  We drove here and there, to Upper Ojai and back down to lower Ojai.  We went from the east end to west end and saw some amazing artwork, and as the day ebbed and flowed, we found ourselves at the studio of Eilam Byle, a painter who also turns wood into amazing works of art whether it be furniture, kitchen counters, bowls or pieces of sculpture.

So, you're asking - what has that got to do w/ Robin Goldstein?  Well, Robin is Eilam's wife.  The studio is also Robin's gourmet kitchen.  Richard and I didn't know which to ogle first - the artwork or the kitchen. While talking to Robin about her kitchen, however,  we learned about her and Table 18.

Robin attended the world-renowned Culinary Institute of America in New York and has lived and cooked in Europe, as well as worked and consulted with some of L.A.'s top caterers and established restaurants.  She's also worked and cooked for private families in California and Hawaii, Spain, Norway and Switzerland.  Now settled in Ojai, Robin is working as a private chef here in the valley and in the Santa Barbara area (she also conducts cooking classes, has her private pop up dinners and helps people transition to vegetarian/vegan and raw food diets).

You're next question is what is Table 18, right?  It's a series of private "farm to table" dinners Robin gives a few times a year in their studio for up to 18 people.  Why 18?  As she tells it, that's how many  charger plates she has.  We were lucky to get a reservation to her latest dinner.  

When we arrived, vodka celery martinis awaited us made from fresh juiced local celery and cucumber, with a splash of Lillet.  I was surprised how refreshing and delicious it was.  For the teetotalers, Robin made mocktinis with fresh pineapple juice, mint and ginger w/ a splash of sparkling H20. 

I meandered around the studio ending up at the serving bar...

... covered with sweet smelling fresh produce where I talked to a few guests.

As we continued to mingle with the other diners, we nibbled on ahi sliders with a garlic-wasabi aioli and crisp cucumber on mini buns or, if you're non-carbing it, on sliced cucumber rounds, plus whipped feta with crushed pistachios and fig on walnut bread.  Loved every nibble.

Cocktails over, we took seats at one of the two farm tables crafted by Eilam.  

Dinner was served.

The first course, served with a chilled chenin blanc wine, was a citrus marinated Kampachi Crudo with orange blossom essence, along with a raw spring vegetable salad of shaved radish, asparagus, turnip, carrot citrus-olive oil and Himalayan sea salt.  So light, so lovely, so delicious.

For our entree, Robin seared Watkins Ranch grass-fed sirloin steak on rosemary twig skewers and served the steak with a parsley chimichurri with preserved lemon, on top of a roasted cauliflower risotto with porcini mushroom spice and white truffle oil...  So yum.

 ... and two rich red wines.

Dessert was poached local peaches with fresh basil, rose water-basil syrup and Marsala whipped crema.  Normally I'm not a dessert lover, but I loved this. Light and airy as gossamer...

Robin's goal is to create, not only an interesting culinary occasion - but a social experience as well, to bring groups of people into an unfamiliar setting for an evening of good food and good conversation.

She accomplished her goal, and then some.

CELERY MARTINI

Ingredients:

2 Oz. 

​Vodka or ​

Gin 1 Oz. Fresh Celery Juice

​ and cucumber juice​

½ Oz. Fresh Lemon Juice
Lillet Blanc
Celery bitters

​

Instructions:

Combine Gin, Celery Juice, Lemon Juice, A Dash Of Bitters, And A Dash Of Lillet In A Cocktail Shaker Filled With Ice. Shake And Strain Into A Chilled Martini Glass. Garnish With Celery Leaves, If You Like.

*To Juice Celery, Use An Electric Juicer And Follow Manufacturer's Instructions Or Purée Roughly Chopped Celery Stalks In A Food Processor Until Smooth. Pour Over A Cheesecloth-Lined Sieve Set Over A Bowl; Press On Solids Until All The Juice Is Drained. Combine Lemon And Celery Juices Immediately To Prevent Browning.

Makes one martini.


Private Chef Robin Goldstein
(805) 284-4264

www.privatechefrobin.com

check out my photos and monthly recipe on my website


Eilam Byle
Www.eilambyle.com
And
Www.eilambylefurniture.com

CARLY SIMON'S Grilled Atlantic Salmon w/ Summer Vegetable Hash

CARLY SIMON'S

Grilled Atlantic Salmon w/ Summer Vegetable Hash

When Richard first made this dish a few years ago, I waited in ANTICIPATION to taste the results.

Why?  I love hash!  I love mixing whatever's in the fridge and hashing it all together and Carly's version of a hash sounded delicious -- Perfect for a summer night's supper.

Since, in our house, NOBODY DOES IT BETTER than Richard cooking in the kitchen, I wasn't surprised how good it was.

(I know, cheezy, right?  I just couldn't help myself.  Besides I love Carly's music and love these two songs - it's a good thing I couldn't figure out how to throw in YOU'RE SO VAIN, but I digress...)

Now that the hot weather is here - this is a perfect dinner for yourself or for company...  Open up a chilled bottle of white or a tasty pinot noir and enjoy.

Grilled Atlantic Salmon

w/ Summer Vegetable Hash

Note:  At the time Richard found this recipe it was listed as a "tasty creation" of Chef Ben DeForest, the chef at Carly's Martha Vineyard restaurant, Hot Tin Roof (known locally at "The Roof") which she co-owned w/ Harvey Weinstein, Strauss Zelnick and John Sykes.

Ingredients:

1 tablespoon vegetable oil

2 tablespoons julienne summer squash

2 tablespoons julienne red bell pepper

2 tablespoons julienne red onion

3 ounces bliss potatoes, cooked and crumbled (other potatoes can be substituted if you can't find    bliss)

Note 2:  Believing this was a recipe "adaptation to the magazine" mistake since tablespoons of julienne summer veggies barely feeds a hamster never mind the four this recipe is designed for, Richard just juliennes away and suggests you do the same and julienne as much of the veggies you think will feed four.

two 12 ounce Atlantic (tho we use Pacific since we do live in California, after all) salmon fillets

Belgian endive spears and asparagus spears for garnish - optional.

Directions:

Heat a skillet over moderately high heat.

Add oil and julienne vegetables and saute until slightly colored.

Add potatoes and toss. (In this case, Richard substituted turnips for potatoes, since I'm doing the starch-y low-carb thing).

Season hash with salt and pepper to taste and keep warm.

Preheat the grill while sauteing the veggies, then grill salmon until done.

Serve on top the vegetable hash, garnished with the asparagus and endive.

Bon appetit.

SUMMER TUNA - Not Your Mom's Tuna Salad

SUMMER TUNA

 Not Your Mom's Tuna Salad

You've got your ceviche, sushi, nicoise, seared Ahi, and mom's tuna salad from a can... and now you have tuna tartare, an absolutely delicious dish that Richard made the other night.

With the weather warming, it's time to bring out summer food delights... ice cream cones, BBQ anything, watermelon, potato salad and cole slaw.  Now you can add tuna tartare to your hot nights menu.  It will snap, crackle and pop in your mouth.

Ahi Tuna Tartare w/ Avocado, Crispy Shallots

& Soy-Sesame Dressing

(inspired by Laurent Tourondel of BLT)

INGREDIENTS:  

 

For the Ahi Tuna & Avocado Tartare:

20 ounces sushi-quality Ahi tuna, cut into small dice

4 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

2 ripe Hass avocados, peeled and diced

1 tablespoon lemon juice

salt & freshly ground pepper

For the crispy shallots and rice:

canola oil for frying

4 tablespoons finely chopped shallots

2 tablespoons flour

2 tablespoons rice crispies (yes, rice crispies!)

sea salt

For the soy-seasame dressing:

3 tablespoons reduced-sodium soy sauce

2 tablespoons mirin

1 tablespoon rice wine vinegar

1 tablespoon lemon juice

1 teaspoon hot sesame oil  (Richard used regular, not hot)

1 teaspoon honey

DIRECTIONS:

For the tuna tartare:

Toss the tuna w/ the olive oil and season with salt and pepper to taste.
Toss the avocado w/ lemon juice and season w/ salt and pepper.


For the crispy shallots & rice:
Heat the oil in a medium saucepan.
Toss the shallots in the flour and fry for 45 seconds, or until golden brown.
Remove the shallots w/ a fine mesh strainer and drain on paper towels.
Mix in the rice crispies.
Season w/ salt.

For the soy-sesame dressing:
Mix all the ingredients together.


TO ASSEMBLE:

Mold the avocado using a 3-inch tartlet ring or cube mold.
        (We didn't have a 3-inch anything so Richard cut the bottom off a Brummel & Brown               "margarine" tub and used that as a mold)
Mold the tuna tartare on top of the avocado and finish w/ the crispy shallots.

Lift off the ring and drizzle the dressing around.

Overhead view:

Serves 6

 

SIPPING SATISFACTION IN OJAI

SIPPING SATISFACTION IN OJAI

Richard and I had been visiting Ojai for years (and I'd been writing about this magical valley for those same years) when we finally bit the bullet, sold our house in L.A., and moved here permanently.  From a sprawling city of 11 million to a charming town of 8 thousand.  From driving bumper-to-bumper on freeways to driving alone on country roads through orange groves. From the multi-plex to the local bijou.  It took us less than a minute to adjust.

There are music festivals, lavender festivals and movie festivals...  There's fine dining and good burgers... tennis tournaments and artist studio tours.... and there's wine tasting.  Right in town!  And y'all know how I love sipping various wines and telling you about them.

My latest find... and I do mean 'find'... is The Ojai Vineyard tasting room nestle right next door to our lovely art center on So. Montgomery.  

The room is small and bright, with bottles on display... 

... framed award certificates and photos of the winery hanging on the walls...

...but the winery is in the process of expanding this tasting room into an even lovelier space next door.  

It was time to taste winemaker Adam Tomach's creations.

The flight price is $15, though you get one free tasting if you buy two bottles of wine.  Jon Long was our barista (Richard was, of course, w/ me).

Jon started us off with the 2012 chardonnay ($28). Aged for ten months in neutral French oak, the wine mellowed to give all the fruit and butter notes one expects from a fine chardonnay. 

Next up was the 2011 sauvignon blanc ($26).  The juice was fermented for seven months in older French oak barrels, giving this wine more depth of flavor than I usually find in sauvignon blancs.

The 2012 reisling was a surprise ($26).  A dry, light wine, this would make a perfect pairing with Thai food (I know, it's of German 'heritage') or sitting out in the backyard w/ some cheese and crackers on one of Ojai's blazing hot days.

The last of the whites was the 2012 viognier ($26).  After chardonnay, I'm partial to viognier, as the flavor is more dense with more fruit and candy tastes with each sip.  And this wine was no exception.

The first red was a 2012 pinot noir ($45).  A cheeky wine, bright red in color, with hints of cherries and plums, cola and even black tea.

Two syrahs followed... the first was the 2012 syrah made from grapes from three vineyards in Santa Barbara county ($30).  Aged 26 months partly in new oak and partly in old oak, this was my favorite wine in the flight.  It had depth and balance w/ wonderful tastes of berries and spice.

Last, but not least was the 2010 syrah ($41).  For me, this wine was less complex, but still had lovely hints of berries and spice.

Sniffing and sipping done, we were happily satisfied and sated.  We'll be back as soon as the expanded tasting room is open!!!

(All wines are available for purchase at a discount through the wine club on The Ojai Vineyard website)

THE OJAI VINEYARD 

Tasting Room

109 S. Montgomery St.

Ojai, CA  93023

Tasting Room:  805-798-3947

www.ojaivineyard.com

A CHEESE "SKIRT" AT THE SQUEEZE INN

A CHEESE "SKIRT" AT THE SQUEEZE INN

 OK - many of you know I'm on a forever search for the perfect cheeseburger (full disclosure - I'm also a cheese junkie), so when my brother and sister-in-law in Sacramento (who know my food proclivities) reminded me about the Squeeze Inn, I had to go.  It's a dive, I found out, that Guy Fieri calls the best in Sac.  He loved it so much he did a piece on this "hole-in-the-wall" for his Food Network show, "Diners, Drive-ins & Dives."  So, since I covet cheeseburgers and love to eat in diners, drive-ins and dives... damn the diet, full speed ahead!!!

This is not one of Richard's favorite foods (I love him despite this flaw in his food character), but he agreed to go even though he'd actually been to the original Squeeze Inn some years ago w/ my brother.  Why I wasn't along with, I have no idea - probably because they'd been playing golf, but I digress...  He did tell me then, however, that  he thought this was a dive for me and that I would sing this burger's praises.

The "original" dive was named Squeeze Inn because if you wanted to eat there you had to squeeze in, as the restaurant, which many Sacramento-ites considered a city landmark, was no bigger than an average-size living room and was furnished with a counter and stools and a couple of picnic benches.  However, a few years ago after a frivolous law suit was filed against the restaurant (which was subsequently dropped), the owners decided to move and find a larger space.

The new location in a strip mall only a stone's throw away from the original dive is larger and can seat many diners comfortably.  The owners recycled the original counter and installed the old dive's storefront in the restaurant and made it into a private eating booth.  

In the entrance is a picture wall of patrons and framed reviews. 

But enough of the decor...

To say I've never had a cheeseburger (called a "squeeze with cheese") quite like this one is an understatement.  I could write a short essay on the grilled cheese skirt alone... in fact I will:

The trick to this squeeze with cheese is that its cooked over a 1/3 pound burger into this crispy and addicting cheese skirt by covering the burger in what seems like a pound of shredded cheese, then throw on some ice chunks and cover.  As the cheese melts partially off the burger and onto the grill, the steam from the ice helps the cheese form their crispy brown edges.  Cheese nirvana.

I always ask for the tomato, onions, lettuce, etc., on the side so that they don't mask the flavors of the melted cheese and grilled ground beef.  However - and it just may have been that the cook was having an off day - the burger itself didn't seem to be 1/3 of a pound and was way too well-done.  That said, the cheese skirt masked my disappointment in the meat.

Of course, we had to have a side of fries, which were adequate.  They could have been a tad more crispy... but they weren't bad.

And, though I disagree with Guy Fieri that the Squeeze Inn is the best dive in Sacramento (I think I would have loved the "original" hole-in-the-wall better), I will give it another try.  It had me at cheese skirt. 

SQUEEZE INN
5301 Power Inn Road
Sacramento, Calif.  95820
916-386-8599

THE NIVENS OF SAN LUIS OBISPO

THE NIVENS OF SAN LUIS OBISPO

Love my sojourns with Richard to Arroyo Grande (affectionately referred to as AG) - not only do we get to have a fun sleepover with good friends, but we get to explore the beaches and countryside... including new wineries.

Our last trip to AG was no exception as we discovered the Niven Family Wine Estates (no relation to the wonderful actor David Niven - at least to my knowledge). Founded by Jack and Catharine Niven, the winery is managed today by multi-generations of Nivens who have farmed the vineyards with a commitment to the surrounding environment and have been certified SIP (Sustainability in Practice) which makes me feel I'm doing my part in helping the environment when I sip their wine.

The tasting room is in the Independence School House, an 850 square foot, one room school house, with 18 foot ceilings, built in 1909.  

Garden tables and chairs are just outside the building for tasting under blue skies...

There are even lanes for a game or two of bocce...

Enrique, our barista, kept our "pour" flowing...

The 2011 tangent Grenache Blanc ($17.00) had a light melon-y taste w/ bits of caramel to balance the acidity.  This wine would go wonderfully with spicy Thai food.

Next was a 2010 Trenza Blanco - 64% grenache blanc/36% albarino ($20.00) - Trenza (Spanish for braid in case you're curious) is a winery which produces wines in the Spanish-inspired New World blends. The Albarino portion is citrus-y, while the grenache blanc is more full-bodied. I really liked it.

The 2012 Zocker Riesling is a new release ($18.00).  It was crisp and grapefruit-y with a taste of orange blossoms.  I'm not a big fan of wines w/ a grapefruit flavor, but if you are, this is a nice wine for the price.

Staying with whites, we moved onto 2012 Zocker Gruner Veltliner, also a new release ($20.00).  This wine also had hints of grapefruit with a lemon/orange finish.

Another new release was the 2012 tangent Albarino ($17.00), a wine that had notes of tangerine, ripe peach and grapefruit.  The winery recommends that this wine be paired with shellfish and I can see a glass standing beside a nice shrimp or lobster dish.

I enjoyed the 2010 Baileyana El Gordo Chardonnay ($30.00) - besides the obligatory tastes of fruit (melon and pears in this case), it also had a delish taste of vanilla and marshmallow. 

Moving to the "reds," we started with a 2009 Trenza Tinto - 50% syrah Edna Valley/33% tempranillo, Arroyo Grande/17% grenache Paso Robles ($30.00) - I liked this wine with its hints of fruit, tobacco (giving it some 'husk'), maple syrup, a bit of black pepper and an aroma that reminded me of autumn leaves on Long Island where I grew up.

The 2009 Cadre Pinot Noir - 32% Firepeak Vineyard, Edna Valley/28% Bien Nacido Vineyard, Santa Maria Valley/22% La Encantada Sta., Rita Hills/18% Laetitia Vineyard, Arroyo GrandeValley ($50.00) - a mix of flavors including cherries, cola and vanilla, I thought this wine was a bit sharp for my taste.

My favorite wine in the flight was the new release 2011 Baileyana Firepeak Syrah ($30.00) - yes, I could taste the plums and cloves, but the undertone of chocolate just made this smooth as velvet.

Last, but not least, was another new release, a 2010 Baileyana Port ($20.00) - full-bodied with plum, boysenberry and cherry notes coupled with hints of vanilla, spice and cinnamon, this is a nice port for the money.

Our tasting over, it was time to head out to dinner.  But if you're ever in San Lus Obispo or AG, drop in at the Niven Family tasting room, you won't be disappointed.


NIVEN FAMILY WINE ESTATES
5828 Orcutt Road
San Luis Obispo, Calif. 9340
805-269-8200
Tasting Room Open Daily: 10AM - 5PM

www.nivenfamilywines.com

Check out the wine club online... it gives discounts.

THE CELLOS ARE COMING! THE CELLOS ARE COMING!

THE CELLOS ARE COMING! 

THE CELLOS ARE COMING!

Alert the media!!!  The largest cello rock band in the world is coming to L.A.

We all know that jazz has its basses, well, stick a bow on it and play "Johnny Be Good."

I know, I know -- I'm not a total musical instrument illiterate - the cello is different from the bass... but you have to admit, they're both tall and cumbersome when traveling on a bus or subway.

Although the cello is traditionally a classical music instrument, 12 classically trained cellists from Yale decided to take a detour from Bach, Beethoven and Brahms and try a little Beatles... and the Eagles and maybe a little Johnny Cash ... by arranging classic rock, pop, metal and blues tunes exclusively for the cello.

They call themselves "Low Strung."

But they don't play music just for Baby Boomers.  Founded in 2004, the group is constantly changing its repertoire to include not only music from the 60's.... but music from the 21st century.  From The Who and Led Zeppelin to Lady Gaga and Imagine Dragons. They mix Bach with Amy Winehouse, and Beethoven with The Eagles. Something old - something new.  A little bit classical - a little bit rock'n'roll.  Music for Baby Boomers and their off-spring and their off-springs' off-springs.

Here's a little musical sample:  http://www.youtube.com/user/LowStrungYale/videos

(My personal favorite - "Hotel California")

Simply said: They rock! 

Catch them at:

WHISKY A GO GO

8901 Sunset Blvd.

West Hollywood, CA 90069

310-652-4202

Date: March 11th

Show time: 8:45 pm

Set: half-hour

Tickets: $10

--------------------------------------

VITELLO'S

  Upstairs at Vitello's

4349 Tujunga Ave.

Studio City, A 91604

818-769-0905

Date: March 13th

Show time: 8:00 pm

Set: one hour

Tickets: Tickets can be purchased at: www.ticketweb.com

 or by calling the box office (number above).  BO hours are 3-6:00pm Mon. thru Sat.

All guests should purchase a ticket to secure a reservation.