TRUE CONCESSIONS

 My column in the summer issue of the Ojai Quarterly glossy magazine

 

 

 

TRUE CONCESSIONS 

 

Millions of kids growing up across the country “back in the day” spent many a Saturday in local movie theaters. They’d meet friends as soon as the theater would open in the morning, then rush in and hit the concession counter for popcorn, bon bons, Dots, Jujubes, red licorice or other candy delights. They settled in their seats and spent hours watching cartoons, followed by old-timey serials like “Flash Gordon” or “Abbott & Costello,” followed by the first of a “double feature” – a ”B” movie (low budget) which was often a western starring Randolph Scott, then a first run “A” movie with big box office stars, including Natalie Wood, John Wayne and Debbie Reynolds. Perhaps a popular Rock Hudson and Doris Day romantic comedy. America was entranced in a Hollywood movie culture... adults and kids alike. Its glamorous stars became America’s royalty.

Decades passed and many towns had to close their local, stand-alone movie theaters as cinema complexes (Cineplexes) in shopping malls sprang up and multiplied like Roger Rabbits across the country. Our total movie experience evolved. Each theater in a Cineplex showed a different movie and we could no longer sit in that darkened room all day watching cartoons, newsreels, adventure serials or “B” movies, as theaters emptied after each showing and a new audience streamed in.

Concession fare also changed as theaters began offering hot dogs, nachos, microwave pizza, along with the earlier popular concession candy selections and popcorn. Of course, nothing was healthful, never mind gourmet. Some mall Cineplexes include arcade games, fast food restaurants, even bars, where patrons can enjoy lunch, dinner, sip a glass of wine or cocktail before or after seeing a movie. The town/village local movie experience had disappeared. Going to a movie was now part of the mall culture, not the movie culture, as malls and Cineplexes became replicas of each other as so wonderfully satirized in a movie, of course: George Romeo’s 1978 horror movie, “Dawn of The Dead.”

Enter David Berger and one of America’s last stand-alone movie theaters - California’s historic Ojai Playhouse - now reopened after floods, fire (in the building’s attached restaurant) and remodeling. David, along with Jasmine Jacobson, the theater’s operations manager, have brought back the neighborhood movie experience for all of us to enjoy, and together have reinvented concession fare. 

They haven’t forgotten movie-goers favorite box candies, but have added some different choices such as Japanese rice candy. 

 

Also on the theater movie menu are other more healthful, even gourmet choices, starting with organic popcorn. Yes - organic popcorn! Popped in coconut oil, this delicious Playhouse popcorn has a natural buttery flavor with a hint of salt. No phony movie theater butter which mixes butter “flavors” and salt in oil and often adds silicone to make the “butter” richer.

If you love cheese (I’m a confessed cheese-aholic) the menu tempts with Brooklyn’s authentic coal-fired Table 87 pizza, flash-fr0zen to keep its freshness and heated in the theater’s oven. And, one of America’s favorite sandwiches is “in the house”:  grilled cheese on Japanese milk bread (a vegan cheese version is also available). 

 

If hotdogs are your jam, bite into an all-beef Hebrew National, smother it with miso mustard and kimchi fermented cabbage (a spicy Asian sauerkraut) or fresh dill pickle relish – a delicious, albeit more healthful version of NYC’s famous Sabrett hotdogs. If you’re a vegetarian or a vegan, you’re also invited into the doghouse with a completely vegan option.  

Speaking of NYC, as an ex-NYer one of my favorite Manhattan “street snacks” was a soft pretzel with a schmear of mustard to go. Welcome to the Playhouse concession and its selection of soft pretzels straight from an LA bakery each day... there’s a mustard salt pretzel, a pretzel stuffed with cheddar cheese and, for a breakfast or dessert pretzel, try the one with cream cheese and cinnamon. 

One of my favorite appetizer or dessert choice is a charcuterie board filled with a selection of cheeses and meats, nuts and fruit. Yes, the Playhouse offers its version of that favorite: “snackuterie” in a box.... cheese, salami, Marcona almonds, dried nectarines and rosemary crackers. 

Looking for something cold and creamy? Check out the theater’s frozen ice cream treats.

Of course, you’ll want something to drink and the Playhouse’s organic fruit slushies are a culinary taste treat. Made with real whole fruit purees, they are low in sugar and have no additives, chemicals or dyes. “Just nature’s colors and flavors!” Jasmine explains. The flavors are changed for variety and include: strawberry, pixie, and banana cream (banana puree and coconut cream) which comes out like a custard or milkshake, then topped with whipped cream and a luxardo cherry. Also, on the slushie menu is a frozen lavender lemonade slushie made with organic citrus, lavender syrup and butterfly pea flower to make it purple. Or enjoy a strawberry or blueberry iced (or hot – you decide) matcha latte, or a cold coffee brew s’more on tap (with added chocolate syrup, vegan marshmallows, Graham cracker crumbs and whipped cream) ... the choices are many. 

 Other non-alcoholic drinks are Martinelli apple juice, along with craft bottle soda and colas with natural cane sugar... no corn syrup allowed. And if you’re a chocolate lover, there’s an organic hot cocoa, with vegan marshmallows to satisfy your chocoholic craving.

If you’re 21 or over and want a slushie with a kick, cocktail slushies are in the offing. Try an Espressotini or a Banana Coloda, perhaps a spicy Mescal Margarita, or Mai Tai... maybe a White Russian.  

Yes, cocktail choices are also limitless as The Playhouse has a full bar, with a bartender who can serve up specialty cocktails such a Poprockarita made with jalapeno tequila, mescal and Pop Rock Candy Rim, as well as traditional cocktails such as gin & tonic, old-fashioneds (with citrus Amaro), martinis or whiskey, neat or on the rocks. Speaking of rocks, The Playhouse has cocktail ice cubes, along with its slushie ice.

If you’re a beer or wine lover, do not fear, there’s something for you here. Beers include a few draft choices, including Peroni and BrewLab dark lager, and craft beer such as Donna’s Pickle Beer, BrewLab Pilsner and Guinness.

For wine lovers: everything from Lorenza Rosé to Far Out Chardonnay to Field Recording Pinot Noir and Fractured Syrah.

 Want to taste them all? Flights are available for both beers and wines.

Proud of his Playhouse Theater, David also makes a concession to non-movie goers as well as those enjoying the latest marquee title. The doors are open to those who want to stop in and enjoy a cocktail or share a Table 87 pizza with a friend.  

The theater is totally sound proof so the movie watchers won’t hear what’s going on in the lobby bar and those in the lobby won’t hear the movie.  So, if the theater is open, so is the lobby bar and “lounge.” Come on in and enjoy a spectacular movie house experience, with a one-of-a-kind concession lounge. In both aspects, David has raised the bar, so belly up and chow down!

Bon appetit!

AN OJAI CHILI WINTER

 

AN OJAI CHILI WINTER

 

No, not to be confused with chilly. Here in the Ojai Valley, chilly is a relative term – though to be fair, we drop down to freezing a few times in the winter.  But, with a zillion Mexican and BBQ restaurants in California, chili is a staple. When I think of a winter meal, however, chili recipes don’t jump from my cookbooks. I think of pot roasts, rib roasts, or legs of lamb surrounded by crispy-on-the-outside, mushy-on-the-inside roasted potatoes or homemade soups enjoyed in front of a blazing log fire. My mind deliciously drifts to sumptuous winter holiday parties with baked turkeys to feed the multitudes, maybe a honey-baked, fresh or canned ham – perhaps a few roast ducks, or brisket!      

 

Autumn was in full foliage in Northern California as my husband, Richard and I drove up PCH to Marin County where we were introduced to Deer Valley Chili at a small dinner party hosted by my high school BFF, Gisela, and her husband. We loved the dish and copied the recipe. Back home in L.A., winter (such as it is) was fast approaching along with its holiday season. It was time to start preparing for our huge holiday party, ranging anywhere from 25-50 people, depending on who flew off to Aspen or back home to New York (like us, many of our friends were transplanted NYers). Their kids were welcomed and grew up as part of our Christmas Eve tradition. In fact, when we sold our house to move to Ojai, we threw a goodbye pool party for all our friends and invited our home’s new young owners. Dear friends’ twin daughters who were twenty-something at the time, told our buyers they would see them on Christmas Eve, explaining that they had celebrated that night in our, now their house every year since they were five. The new owners were charmed, if not a little wary that they would indeed show up... but I digress. 

 

As Richard loves to cook (lucky me) and is quite the chef, the menu for our yearly holiday party was his domain. That year he decided to try a different approach to his holiday buffet to feed a hoard. We’d become more health conscious and environmentally ‘woke’ by cutting down on red meat. (We also own a hybrid car, so we cut down on car gas and cow gas!) So, he decided on something poultry – free range, of course, but, no, not a “Thanksgiving” turkey with stuffing, but, a chicken or turkey cassoulet. Light bulbs flashed... why not a poultry chili (though I’m not sure the French think of any vat of chili as a cassoulet or even a casserole, but I’m digressing, again). From sea to shining sea, chili parties are always popular, so he opted to make Gisela’s Tex-Mex turkey Deer Valley chili.

 

 

OK, Deer Valley, Utah is not noted for a large Hispanic (less than 25% last count) or a transplanted Texas population, but this turkey chili (chicken can be a substitute) checks all the Tex-Mex cooking boxes ...tomato, black beans, corn, onions, and chili beans (of course)... so Richard multiplied Gisela’s recipe to feed a crowd of 30-40 with a side red cabbage and walnut salad (holiday colors)

 

 

 

 and cornbread... Mexican cornbread, of course.

 

 

Whether you chili-out with a few friends or with a village, everything you need can be found at Ojai’s Sunday and Thursday farmer’s markets, Rainbow Bridge or, both Westridge Markets where you can also order your free-range chicken or turkey.

 

DEER VALLEY CHILI

(Southwestern Tex-Mex Chili)

Ingredients: 

2 cups dried black beans, rinsed

10 cups water

1 teaspoon pepper

½ cup (1 stick) unsalted butter

2 medium Anaheim chilies, seeded & chopped

2/3 cup chopped red onion

2/3 cup chopped celery

2/3 cup chopped red bell pepper

1 large leek (white part only), chopped

2 garlic cloves, minced

2 tablespoons dried oregano, crumbled

¼ cup all-purpose flour

2-1/2 tablespoons chili powder

2-1/2 tablespoons ground cumin

2 tablespoons ground coriander

1 teaspoon salt

¼ teaspoon sugar

4-1/2 cups chicken stock or canned broth

2-1/4 cups frozen corn, thawed

4 cups diced cooked turkey or chicken – it’s this diced turkey or chicken that makes it different from traditional turkey chili recipes which use ground turkey…

(Richard roasted a turkey for the occasion)

Toppings:  

Grated cheddar cheese

Chopped red onion

Sour cream

Chopped fresh cilantro

Directions:

Place black beans in large pot w/ enough cold water to cover by 3 inches and let soak overnight.

Drain beans.  Return beans to pot.  Add 10 cups water and the pepper and bring to boil.  Reduce heat and simmer until beans are tender, stirring occasionally, about 1-1/2 hours.  Drain beans.

Melt butter in same pot over medium heat.  Add Anaheim chilies, 2/3 cup chopped onion, celery, bell peppers, leeks, garlic and oregano.  Cook until vegetables soften, stirring occasionally, about 10 minutes.  Reduce heat to low.  Add flour, chili powder, cumin, coriander, salt and sugar and cook 5 minutes, stirring frequently.  Add 4 cups stock and bring to simmer, stirring frequently.  Puree 1-1/4 cups corn w/ remaining ½ cup stock in food processor.  Add puree to chili.  Mix in black beans, turkey and remaining 1 cup corn.  Simmer chili 15 minutes, stirring occasionally.

(Can be prepared a day ahead.  Cover and refrigerate.  Reheat before serving.)

Place toppings in individual bowls on the table for everyone to pick and choose.

Makes 6 servings. 

Obviously, Richard more than tripled the recipe to make enough to feed the ‘throngs.’ Recipe is easily doubled or tripled.  For 30 servings, multiply by 5.

 

MEXICAN CORN BREAD

Ingredients:

1 cup butter, melted

1 cup white sugar

4 eggs

1 (15 ounce) can cream-style corn

½ (4 ounce) can chopped green chili peppers, drained

½ cup shredded Monterey Jack cheese

½ cup shredded cheddar cheese

1 cup all-purpose flour

1 cup yellow cornmeal

4 teaspoons baking powder

¼ teaspoon salt

Directions:

Preheat oven to 300 degrees F (150 degrees C).  Lightly grease a 9x13 baking dish.

In large bowl, beat together butter and sugar.  Beat in eggs one at a time.  Blend in cream corn, chilies, Monterey Jack and cheddar cheese

In separate bowl, stir together flour, cornmeal, baking powder and salt.  Add flour mixture to corn mixture; stir until smooth.  Pour batter into prepared pan.

Bake in preheated oven for 1 hour, until a toothpick inserted into the center of the pan comes out clean.

Makes 6 servings. Richard, of course, made more than one batch for our party.

Chili out!  Happy Holidays and a wonderful New Year!!!